Petroleum jelly (also called petrolatum) is a highly refined semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons derived from crude oil. During manufacture it undergoes extensive purification, and pharmaceutical- or cosmetic-grade petrolatum must meet strict purity standards.
It is found in products such as:
- Vaseline
- Many prescription eczema creams
- Lip balms
- Baby products
- Healing ointments
- Many luxury moisturisers (including brands costing well over £100)
Why do some people avoid it?
1. It does not nourish the skin
Petrolatum is an occlusive ingredient.
It sits on the surface of the skin and forms a barrier that dramatically reduces water loss (by around 98%).
That makes skin feel softer because moisture is retained—but it contributes virtually no vitamins, antioxidants, essential fatty acids or other nutrients that support skin function.
Plant oils, by comparison, may supply:
- Vitamin E
- Phytosterols
- Polyphenols
- Essential fatty acids (Omega 3, 6 and 9)
- Carotenoids
These compounds can support the skin barrier beyond simply preventing water loss.
2. It is not biodegradable
Petrolatum originates from fossil fuels.
Although cosmetic-grade petrolatum is highly purified, many consumers prefer renewable plant-derived ingredients because they have a lower dependence on petroleum resources.
For environmentally conscious brands, this is often the biggest objection rather than any safety concern.
3. It can create dependency in very dry skin
This is controversial.
Petrolatum doesn’t make skin “lazy” in the sense of shutting down its own moisturising processes. There is little evidence for that claim.
However:
If someone continually relies on an occlusive layer without addressing why their skin barrier is impaired, the underlying issue remains.
Once they stop using the product, the skin often feels dry again because the protective film has gone.
That’s not because petrolatum damaged the skin—it simply wasn’t treating the underlying cause.
4. It isn’t ideal for everyone
Some people dislike:
- its heavy texture
- greasy feel
- shiny appearance
- transfer onto clothing
This is more of a cosmetic drawback than a medical one.
5. It contains no active skincare benefits
Compared with many botanical oils, petrolatum has:
- no antioxidants
- no anti-inflammatory phytochemicals
- no essential fatty acids
- no naturally occurring vitamins
Its primary role is protection.
Does petroleum jelly clog pores?
Generally, surprisingly not.
Highly refined petrolatum has a low comedogenic rating.
Although it feels heavy, studies have generally found it to be non-comedogenic for most people.
However, acne-prone individuals may dislike how occlusive it feels, especially if applied over oily skin or in combination with pore-clogging products.
Why do dermatologists recommend it?
Because it is exceptionally good at one job.
Preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
When the skin barrier has been severely damaged—as with:
- eczema
- dermatitis
- burns
- post-laser treatment
- post-surgery
- cracked skin
reducing water loss quickly is often the priority.
Petrolatum is one of the most effective and well-studied occlusives available.
This is why it is widely recommended in clinical settings.
Why do luxury skincare brands still use it?
Several reasons:
It works
Consumers notice immediate softness.
It is incredibly stable
Unlike plant oils, petrolatum:
- does not oxidise easily
- rarely goes rancid
- has a very long shelf life
- is chemically stable
It is inexpensive
Even premium brands sometimes formulate with inexpensive base ingredients while charging premium prices for branding and packaging.
It improves texture
It gives creams:
- richness
- glide
- a luxurious feel
- better water resistance
It is very safe
One of petrolatum’s strongest advantages is its long safety record.
Properly refined cosmetic-grade petrolatum has been used for decades and is considered safe by major regulatory bodies.
Why is it used in prescription products?
Prescription products are designed to treat medical conditions rather than deliver a “natural” experience.
For example, in eczema:
An impaired skin barrier allows excessive water loss and increased penetration of irritants.
A petrolatum-rich ointment rapidly seals the barrier, reducing water loss and allowing the skin to recover.
For this reason, many NHS-prescribed emollients contain petrolatum, paraffin, or mineral oil.
Why do natural skincare brands oppose it?
Some objections are evidence-based; others are marketing.
Evidence-based arguments include:
- it contributes no nutrients to the skin
- it is fossil-fuel derived
- it is not renewable
- it lacks botanical actives
Less well-supported claims include:
- “it suffocates the skin”
- “it blocks pores in everyone”
- “it is toxic”
- “it stops the skin breathing”
- “it prevents skin from functioning”
These claims are generally not supported by current scientific evidence when referring to properly refined cosmetic-grade petrolatum.
Plant oils vs petroleum jelly
|
Plant oils |
Petroleum jelly |
|
Rich in fatty acids |
No fatty acids |
|
Antioxidants |
None |
|
Vitamins |
None |
|
Botanical compounds |
None |
|
Renewable |
Fossil-derived |
|
Can oxidise |
Extremely stable |
|
Moderate barrier support |
Outstanding barrier support |
|
Often absorbed |
Primarily remains on the surface |
The balanced conclusion
Petroleum jelly is not inherently “bad” skincare. It is a highly effective, well-researched occlusive that excels at protecting damaged skin and preventing moisture loss, which explains why it remains a mainstay of dermatology and prescription emollients.
However, for everyday skincare—particularly if the goal is to nourish healthy skin—many people prefer plant-based formulations that combine moisturising with naturally occurring lipids, antioxidants, vitamins and other bioactive compounds. These ingredients may offer broader skin-supporting properties while also aligning with preferences for renewable, plant-derived products.
From the point of view of a professional formulator who's trying to create natural skincare that's as beneficial to the skin as possible, whilst not compromising on ingredient quality or sustainability, the occlusive properties of petroleum jelly can be replaced with something equally protective and moisture retaining, offering more to your overall skin health.
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