When “Miracle” Skincare Crosses the Atlantic: A Conversation That Highlights Why Regulation Matters
Last weekend, while exhibiting Natrl Skincare at a local market, I had a fascinating conversation with a visitor to our stand.
She was genuinely enthusiastic about a product called DMSO (Dimethyl Sulfoxide), explaining that she had been using it as an anti-ageing treatment with remarkable results. She told me she purchased it online from an American supplier, that it was promoted extensively by a well-known doctor, and that it was manufactured from organic sources.
She then asked why we didn’t use it in our own skincare formulations.
It was one of those moments where experience tells you to be cautious.
I explained that I wasn’t familiar enough with its use in cosmetics to comment on its effectiveness, but that I suspected it might not be permitted for use in UK or European skincare products. That seemed to surprise her, and it prompted me to investigate the subject in more detail after the event.
What I found serves as a useful reminder of why cosmetic regulation exists.
What is DMSO?
Dimethyl Sulfoxide (DMSO) is an organosulfur compound originally developed as an industrial solvent. It is highly effective at dissolving both water-soluble and oil-soluble substances, making it useful in manufacturing and laboratory settings.
One characteristic makes DMSO particularly unusual: it readily penetrates human skin.
That ability has led to decades of interest in medical research, particularly as a carrier for delivering certain medicines through the skin. It has also led to claims that it can reduce inflammation, relieve pain and even improve skin ageing.
However, this same property is also the reason regulators take such a cautious approach.
Why is DMSO controversial?
Unlike most cosmetic ingredients, DMSO doesn’t simply remain on the surface of the skin.
It acts as a powerful penetration enhancer, meaning it can carry other substances through the skin barrier and into the bloodstream.
That may sound beneficial at first glance, but it creates significant safety concerns.
If there are contaminants on the skin, impurities within a cosmetic formulation, residues from manufacturing, or even traces of dirt or chemicals on the hands during application, DMSO can potentially transport those substances into the body as well.
In other words, it doesn’t discriminate between ingredients you want absorbed and those you definitely don’t.
It can also cause skin irritation, burning sensations, redness and dermatitis in some individuals. Users frequently report a distinctive garlic or oyster-like taste or odour shortly after application, caused by one of DMSO’s metabolites being excreted through the breath and skin.
Why isn’t it used in European cosmetics?
Under the UK’s retained cosmetics legislation and the European cosmetic regulatory framework, DMSO is not permitted for use as an ingredient in cosmetic products.
The reason is not because regulators believe every use is inherently dangerous, but because the ingredient’s exceptional ability to transport substances through the skin creates safety challenges that are incompatible with normal cosmetic use.
Medicinal products undergo extensive testing, dose control and clinical assessment. Cosmetics do not.
The regulatory principle is straightforward: if an ingredient has the potential to significantly alter the way substances enter the body, it belongs under medicines regulation rather than cosmetic regulation.
How is DMSO sold in the UK?
This is where things become confusing for consumers.
DMSO is still available to purchase in the UK, but it is generally marketed and sold as an industrial solvent, laboratory chemical or similar non-cosmetic product. It is not approved to be marketed as a cosmetic ingredient for skincare use.
Unfortunately, the internet has blurred these distinctions.
A product may be perfectly legal to sell for one purpose, while being entirely inappropriate—or even unlawful—to market for another.
The internet has changed how skincare information spreads
One of the biggest challenges facing consumers today is that advice no longer respects national borders.
A product heavily promoted in one country can quickly gain an enthusiastic following thousands of miles away through social media, YouTube, podcasts and online forums.
Influential personalities, healthcare commentators and self-proclaimed experts may discuss products within the context of their own country’s regulations, yet those recommendations are often consumed worldwide without any appreciation that the legal position is completely different elsewhere.
The result is that consumers can unknowingly purchase products online that fall outside UK cosmetic regulations, assuming that if they are available on a website, they must also be suitable for cosmetic use here.
Sadly, that is not always the case.
Natural doesn’t automatically mean safe
During our conversation, the customer also mentioned that the DMSO she purchased was made from “organic sources.”
Whether a substance originates from trees, plants, petroleum or a laboratory tells us remarkably little about whether it is appropriate for skincare.
Safety depends on toxicology, concentration, intended use, purity, stability and robust scientific assessment—not simply where an ingredient began its life.
As formulators, we have a responsibility to consider all of these factors before including any ingredient in a product.
Regulation protects consumers
This experience reminded me why cosmetic regulation matters.
At Natrl Skincare, we formulate with ingredients that comply with UK cosmetic legislation because our customers place their trust in us. Every ingredient we choose must satisfy not only our own standards for effectiveness and sustainability, but also the rigorous safety requirements established by independent scientific review.
The internet has made information available to everyone. Unfortunately, it has also made misinformation available to everyone.
As consumers, it’s worth asking not only “Does this ingredient work?” but also “Why is it approved in one country and restricted in another?”
Sometimes, the answer tells you far more than the marketing ever will.
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